Andrea Helmuth

Hellfire Gozo Ultra Trail (English Version) 2013

Challenge yourself!

Translation by: Natascha Reitz

No, there is no way I could possibly fall asleep tonight. How could I? Instead of counting sheep I cannot stop reflecting on this long and eventful day that passed.

My boldest dreams appeared to be coming true. Although I am not a discoverer of a new island, eventually I can leave my footprint on a more uncommon place. In fact it is not so easy to find an almost unknown racing event, especially if you are a collector of marathon and ultra-marathon races.

The island of Gozo’s coastline totals 43 km with its longest stretch being 14 km wide. To surround the 67 km² large area you need to walk or run 55 km ascending 1400 m of terrain. The race – or to be more precise the discoverer-trail – is the perfect chance to combine sports and to experience the diversity of the culture and nature of this lovely island.

Gozo is located about six kilometres northwest of the main island of Malta. Once upon a time, Greek mythology says that Odysseus was stranded on this island as a castaway. Gozo is nestled in the Mediterranean Sea just 90 kilometres from Sicily and is so small that no airports or even train stations are needed.

On the few streets you have to drive on the left and all traffic is controlled by just one single traffic light. Nevertheless should you by any reason get a speeding ticket, the payment can be made in Euros. However, this island paradise is best explored on foot and the highest elevation is reached at 195 meters above sea level.

Admittedly, five weeks ago I did not know much about the island that is the Republic of Malta. It was more than a lucky coincidence to discover Gozo on my own following the Malta-Marathon. It was just an appetizer but I enjoyed it and I felt like an explorer on an expedition in a dreamland. It was like tasting the forbidden fruit; I did not want to stop exploring. Odysseus was able to resist the lure of the love-crazed Calypso and left after seven years. Sadly, I had to stop my adventure of surrounding Gozo as scheduled after one weekend.

Friday: The Arrival

There is a direct flight connection between Frankfurt and the Malta International Airport (Luga) that is less than a two and a half hour flight. A long line of travellers waits before the cabstand: while in Germany cab rides are paid when arriving at your destination, here it is common to pay the fare beforehand. I inquire about the cost of a fare to the ferry port Cirkewwa: 35 Euros. The express bus X1 departing right next to the cab stand costs only 2.20 Euros. No doubt – I decide to take the bus.

One hour later I arrive at Cirkewwa port and just miss the ferry to Mgarr – by the way the only public route to and from Gozo. As the ferry has a 45 minute schedule I use the time to relax enjoying the sun. Jacques Costeau’s famous research vessel Calypso was also once a ferry crossing the Comino canal before he acquired it and made it famous. I sail past Comino, the third and smallest occupied island of Malta, and I just finish my cappuccino as the ferry approaches Gozo.

Antonello – the race director – is already waiting for me at the pier. Comfortably he guides me through the countryside of peaceful Gozo. Our destination is the northern coast in Marsalforn, the largest resort of the island. We stop at the four-star hotel Calypso, my home for the next two nights. The booked room is bright and spacious and from the balcony I have a wonderful view on the bay, the boardwalk, the open sea and the beautiful pebble beach. I decide to start the thrilling weekend with a walk through this former fishermen’s town followed by a piece of cake on the rooftop café of the hotel.

The special Mediterranean, leisurely appearing rhythm of life infects me. Or is it the change or air that makes me feel so relaxed? Tonight I prefer a beef filet over the ususal pre-race pasta-dish. As we shall see, this was an excellent decision.

Saturday: Race time

A clean hotel with bright and spacious rooms with a delicious early morning breakfast – that does not sound very special compared to other hotels in the world, right? But this morning’s marathon participants are provided an extra early breakfast enjoying a comprehensive buffet and attentive service – something runners do not experience every day. Gozo has 30.000 inhabitants – or so it is estimated. Including all racers it has a few more today. According to participant statistics, Italy is represented by the second-largest group of athletes only beaten by the number of runners from Malta.

So I find myself pressed in-between cheering and joyful singing Italians after entering the crowded bus. In just a few minutes it brings us – bucking and with hard suspension – to Nadur in the northeastern part of the island.

Below the Nadur Parish Church, marking the highest point of the city, the Hellfire-banner is hung tightly in the air. The clear blue sky and the pleasantly warm air make perfect running conditions. The island is peacul and quiet. Only the Italian singsong prevents my mind from slipping away. 15 minutes to go until the race starts. With a thick black pen I get my bib number drawn on both upper arms. The colour is neither water nor liposoluble and will remind me for a long time to come what happened today. Challenge yourself!

My biorhythm has already adapted to the given conditions, I feel relaxed in a fairly Mediterranean way, maybe even questionably slow for someone about to participate in an ultra-marathon race. But I do not even care. Unhurried I start checking my equipment. It is required to carry at least one litre of water with you at all times and to wear trail-running shoes. In addition to that a cell phone is required. I am also requested to carry the phone number of the race director and the (hopefully not necessary) first aid number with me. All Hellfire founders stress one more time that this event is not (all) about speed but also about defying your own limits.

Race day morning begins for most runners with their special ritual. At the start I meet David who seems highly focused. Squatting on the ground with his head lying on his bent legs, he starts smiling as someone pats him on his shoulder. David, born in Africa with English and Scottish ancestors, lives (and runs) on Cyprus and has a special ritual as well: He takes up dust and sand from the ground with his fingers and trickles his arms, legs and hair with it. Later he will explain to me that this is his way to express his connection to “Mother Earth” who, he believes, gives him power and speed. He is looking forward to enjoying the audience applause after finishing in a few hours. Nobody yet knows if they will reach the finish line. There are way too many imponderables that we runners cannot control. There is always the risk of suffering from stomach problems, getting injured or even lost.

„Life is like a box of chocolates…

…you never know what you’re gonna get“ says Tom Hanks right at the beginning of the movie Forrest Gump. Today my box of chocolates is 32 miles peppered with countless ascents and descents. Every bitten off piece melts in your mouth and you cannot wait for the taste of the sometimes sweet, bitter or even hot surprising filling. I am sure to enjoy whatever is inside my box.

Bodypainting

It is past eight o’clock. For the first time I can write that a race did not start as scheduled. Finally the last runner receives his marking. The waiting has finally come to an end and the race starts.

Along with the ultra-marathon runners a few mixed teams, comprising two alternating athletes running and cycling the course side-by-side, rise to the challange. Mountain biking and running as a team? This used to be a new and daring concept a few years ago. Today there will be a second starting signal especially for the solo mountainbikers and half-marathon runners three hours after we go out on the course.

The individually numbered men and women cannot be stopped now. Shortly after the starting signal sounds athletes begin to separate into different speed groups. Soon after we leave the town, the trail starts and for the first time that morning I can hear the waves and smell the scent of the sea.

However, this island seems to be popular amongst the “descendants” of Jacques Cousteau, since I see dozens of neoprene-skinned explorers prepared to submerge. An ambulance is always on-site – just in case. I am on the course now for less then an hour and can already feel the bleakness of everyday life vanish as I soak up all those stunning colours and the warm air. Especially during this season where the German spring is a joke with its temperatures around freezing point and where my yearning for fresh spring colours and warmer weather has reached its peak. Here, though, wildflowers spread widely before us representing all different kind of colours.

Shortly afterwards, I approach the Mgarr ix-Xini canyon leading from the sea into a small bay. I, now, have the beach all to myself apart from the tiny orange-coloured runner behind me who is slowly coming closer. Michele, bib number 43, lives in Palermo and when he is not running, he drives coaches, like the one of the soccer team ACF Fiorentina. Another runner joins our group: the Maltese Antonio (wearing number 9). It is his home race, because he is not only born and raised in Malta, but still lives and works here.

Cooperation instead of competition

Gozo’s island character becomes visible as we approach the first nutrition point after eleven kilometres. Located in the south of the island, the village of Sannat features some of the original street layout with grinding cart tracks and impressive remains including temples and dolmen. We continue on stony ground where the national plant of Malta, Cheirolophus crassifolius, can be seen along with one of the rarest plants in Europe, Silene fruticosa also known as Woody Catchfly as well as abundant cacti like prickly pears.

One should be absolutely free from giddiness to have the heart to look down from the Ta´Cenc-Cliff to enjoy the highest bluffs of the island plunge down into the sea. I cannot take my eyes off the awe-inspiring seascape. In the near future a footpath to the cliff will be laid out making the attraction accessible to more visitors.

Perilously the path now heads downwards when unexpectedly the horizon opens with a magnificent panoramic view of the Kantra Valley. We pass a deep gorge that once was a riverbed and fishing harbour. The path leads steeply uphill and below we see the sheer cliffs overlooking the village of Xlendi. At this time of year, peace reigns on the golden beaches where you can find rest and tranquillity. Life takes place underwater. A ladder encased in concrete leads divers down into crystal-clear and cool waters.

For everything which is wreck diving for divers is a really good trail of a trail runner, just as the corpulent men in their tight and black wetsuits dive down we enjoy our ascent. Directly behind the village at the Xlendi Bay are stone steps, imagine a via ferrata rather than stairs, wind upwards. The sun stabs mercilessly from the sky and the stones seem to glow in the fierce heat. The sheer steps do not want to end when all of the sudden a bare and precarious rock juts out from the stairway. Just like the numerous geckos of the island, we stick vertically on the rock. Practical experience repeatedly shows the importance of good deep-tread soles. Searching for support I carelessly grasp thorns instead and a wave of pain rushes through every single finger. Even Michele seems to suffer and for the next hour Anthony curses distorted with pain against the race director: “Fuck it, Ruben!” Once at the top I could already see him smile again, because we just have reached one of the best vantage points over Xlendi.

Miles 11-20

At this point we are on the western coast of Gozo. With the corrugated soles of my trail running shoes I am entangled in a fine meshed net used for catching birds. As a trail runner, practically the first thing you have to learn is to raise your feet high. Always. After crossing the plateau we reach Gozo’s next fascinating sight. The 65-meter high limestone block, known as “Fungus Rock”, consists of Maltese sponge, which only occurs here and brought the Order of Malta wealth and prosperity. The plant was famous for its healing properties and believed to be an aphrodisiac, too, and the fact that it has no healing effects whatsoever was recognized only later. With the wind at my back the route continues and I feel ready to take on anything.

Small yet distinctive afar I recognize the famous “Azure Window”. With each new step the window grows larger and so do the parking lot battlefields. We reach Dwejra Bay between Mile 13 and 14 and directly at the Dwejra Tower the next aid station awaits us.

Azure Window

Inattentive for a moment, we find ourselves straying off the path in the nicest possible way as we stand directly in front of the Azure Window. The 30-meter high rock formation builds a marvellous framework for the picture-perfect azure sea.

After a steep ascent the wind suddenly pulls so hard from the front as if someone has opened the window too wide. The trail gets barer. Once again, we feel like scouts following the red arrows painted on stone or the red-white striped barrier tape tied to a strain of wild cauliflower. The route is excellently marked but unfortunately some jesters had fun to remove the tape, and also the strong wind serves its purpose. Some Hellfire Ultra-mountain bikers flash by.

Siesta: The village and the runners rest

Again we reach another checkpoint and nutrition point. What Michele forgot to bring, Anthony can spare and he loves to surprise us with always another treat. In the distance water wheel creaks. At this point we might have paused a little bit too long but without rushing we shoulder our backpacks and continue to run. The course profile remains entertaining.

Mile 21 – 32: Speed is relative!

Michele continously increases the pace, because we still have a lot to discover. Gozo’s countryside is way too beautiful to be distracted by such things as time, which is why I do not even dare to check my watch. Right here at the picturesque shoreline one can marvel at the hand-dug salt pans enlightened by the sun. These historic salt marshes near Masalforn have been around since 1740 and are still in use today.

Without the aid stations and the water we carry in our backpacks, we would already be lying around feeling like dried fruit by now. We reach the third nutrition point in QBajjar and once more the young Boy Scouts (Xaghra Scout Group) take tender care of us making it difficult for us to decide to keep on running. That Masalforn is one of Gozo’s favourite tourist stops becomes obvious when you see that every last place in all restaurants along the boardwalk is taken. Gozo is more peaceful and the price level is significantly lower than it is on the main island Malta.

After around mile 19 we pass the Hotel Calypso. I am happy that our hotel is not the finish area because I still have so much energy and excitement in me to experience and discover more of this island and it’s coasts. We leave Masalforn and the road climbs steeply. This countryside seems smooth yet turns out to be just a good masquerade.

Copacabana or Fata Morgana?

Twelve meters high is the statue of Jesus on the Tas Salvatur that, some say, was once a volcano and shall protect the islanders against an eruption. Down to the present day no eruption occurred.

The next miles cover a passage of my “Discovery Trail” previously reported. Before the Malta marathon I never ever would have thought to end up and run here. Now this is the second time I am blessed to relish the beaming turquoise sea with its white foamcrowns.

Bamboo cave

Numerous running magazines rhapsodise trailrunning and describe it as the ultimate and vivid approach to nature. Some races are famous for their difficulty and their tremendously excruciating conditions. And what is more, thousands of runners are fascinated by those overpriced “fun runs” where you have to wade through the mud and cross fake climbing obstacles. I, too, once waited over 30 minutes to pass only one obstacle in one of these races.

And today I run on a “clayey” and slippery trail through high-growing reed plants. The entry into a bamboo cave is hidden in the reeds and to move through it we have to walk crouched down. Coming out of the cave again I am utterly amazed by the following scenario: Male Italians are notorious for throwing a glance after women briefly – it is woven into their genes. That is why I never would have imagined a Sicilian kneeling before me. No less charming is the Maltese of our group who holds out his hand for me as I try to pass a nearby stream.

As if this was not enough we now need to climb a small passage on all fours. We are so slow, snails could pass by.

Calypso Cave

Alright, this would be the perfect spot for a coffee to-go! That is exactly the place I pictured, where the nymph Calypso trapped and maybe loved the young sailor Odysseus.
From here we are looking down onto the beach Ramla I’Hamra. It takes us down a steep hill to Gozo’s most famous cove – the Ramla bay. At the beach and on the tender and rust-coloured sand lie the two bodies of a couple like two fresh and crunchy Weisswurst sausages. What a beauteous contrast.

The soles of Anthony’s shoes break down and we find ourselves lost once again. Maybe all the route markings are gone with the wind? While in the heartland of the island it sounds like the famous German choir conductor Gotthilf Fischer is directing a choir of howling dogs. Barking of stray dogs – all my senses go into panic mode! Ironically here we are without any orientation passing them twice because we are just running in circles.

The dogs are soon forgotten, however, when the fragrant aroma of fresh lemons fills the air. And to be honest, I believe the dogs were harmless. Running further on the – now hopefully right – course we reach terraced fields bounded by small stone walls. That is, so to speak, the vegetable garden of Gozo consisting of lemon, bean, banana and fig plants. You cannot imagine the density of fused smells united with the wonderful view of the sea. From here on out, I am running with some lemons on my back.

“Tempus fugit” – Time is running

This well-known phrase hits the nail on the head. We are lost again and in addition to that we have no reception whatsoever. No ringing cellphones – sounds fantastic, right? I would agree, if we were not stuck in the wild with never-ending bushes. And to make things even worse we had come to a fork. Here we dig up Alfonso (bib number 40) who was wandering for quiet some time through the wild side of Gozo. With a great deal of difficulty we finally reach a street and are able to re-orientate. The last nutrition point is at least 4.5 miles far away.

The Famous Five

Regrettably, however, the last low rays of the setting sun bathes the hilly countryside in a golden light. No one wants to speak it out loud, but we all know that we cannot reach the finishline in time. I fight back the tears as I see the car sent out to pick us up, coming slowly closer. Without asking the others I say to Nathan, the driver of the car: “Even if we are just 4.5 miles away from the correct track, please let us finish the race running.” Fortunately he agrees and guides us with his SUV for the last mile towards the finish in Nadur.

What follows is a magnificient showdown. Together and hand-in-hand the tired runners make their triumphal procession over the market place and the finish line. We cheer and embrace each other feeling pretty exhausted. It is a rare experience to feel so much bliss at a running event. The experience brings us closer together – the same destroyed illusions, the same pain, but also the same wish for a second attempt! This day engraved itself into my memory.

Nevertheless, the situation remains exciting, maybe a little bit too thrilling for my taste. The finish of our little group has been confirmed, yet every runner has to face a one hour penalty. I feel so relieved. What is a time penalty compared to a “Did not finish”?

After Race Party

After ten hours of testing your physical condition you are truly grateful for a shower. “You have exactly 10 minutes”, I hear. 10 minutes? That is quite a fast transiton area, including showering and putting on make-up. The day ends with Gozitan meals, Maltese wine and in the company of the Minister for Gozo.
At this point I would like to cordially thank all those involved in the event such as organisers, volunteers and supporters! It is this stress-free yet professional way of the Hellfire-team, ensuring entertaining hours on Gozo until the sun sets. All participants are convinced, that today they experienced a one-of-a-kind racing event. “Yes, indeed” – you have got to spoil yourself sometimes.

Sunday: Homeward journey

Grey rain clouds hang over Masalforn on the next morning as if the island wants to ease my farewell. The sea roars against the rock plateau and some waves even outpour on the promenade. I still have some time left for a relaxed breakfast and to write the first lines of this report, before boarding the ferry back to Malta. A few hours later I touch down in cold Frankfurt. At least the sun is finally shining.

Résumé:

The Hellfire Utlra-marathon race on the island of Gozo is a real insider’s tip! I ate up every delicious mile, like I would have enjoyed the first handmade filled chocolate melting on my tongue. Running is like eating chocolates, once you start it frustrates any good intentions. You only can stop after eating up the whole box. New studies connect this behaviour to the body’s own “reward system” in the brain. There is this old saying that is not only valid for eating chocolates but also for running: It is the dose that makes the poison.

More things to note:

„Almost every street on Gozo leads to the island’s capital city Victoria. Especially a kind of ring road is missing on which you could surround the island along its coastline.” At least this is what the German Wikipedia entry says about Gozo.
The Hellfire organisation team has proven that a circumnavigation of the island is possible even without such a ring road. Many months of preparation have passed before the two Maltese Antonello and Nathan made their dream come true and explored the island in 2012. They set up the company “Hellfire” to share their passion with others because they know exactly what runners demand, as they are ambitious ultrarunners and triathletes themselves. Hellfire races can be described as extreme events on difficult terrain. Including further races like the “LungBuster”, a triathlon and a duathlon they invite athletic and ambitious tourists to experience the seemingly inexhaustible attractiveness of both Malta and Gozo.

Homepage and registration: http://hellfiretri.moonfruit.com/gozo-55k-trail/4541371436

Competitions: Besides the described Ultramarathon a half-marathon race is offered. In addition to that cycling fans can complete both distances on mountain bikes as well. Additionally a special team challenge for two athletes to pass the track side-by-side running and cycling is provided.

Track profile: Ultra-marathon distance (32 miles) accumulating 1400 m of height.

Entry fee: 40 € for the Ultra-marathon race. Additionally a number of arrangements can be booked. One example: four-star hotel Calypso, two overnight stays including breakfast in a double bedroom, free transfers, ferry transport, entry fee and finisher party: 148 € for participants, 108 € for companions.

Temperature: 19°C

Food supply: Four aid stations offering fresh and juicy oranges, bananas, fruit jellies, salty snacks and isotonic drinks. In addition four more drink stands to refill your bottles.

Type of time keeping: Classic time measuring by hand at the finish line.

Awards: Trophies and non-cash prizes for the first two finishers. No subdivision of age groups! All participants get a buff scarf in Hellfire design.

Currency: EURO

Power supply: Three-pole (like in GB), 240 V

Arrival: The ferry is scheduled multiple runs a day (including weekends and holidays) between Malta and Gozo. Check the schedule at gozochannel.com

Accomodation: Hotel Calypso, Marsalforn Bay (www.hotelcalypsogozo.com)
General informations about the island of Gozo can be found at www.visitgozo.com

Top two finishers 2013 Men:
1. Giuseppe Cuttaia, (IT), 05:53:50
2. David Simpson, (CYP), 06:04:28

Top two finishers 2013 Women:
1. Alessandra Corvaia (IT), 07:35:38
2. Karen Xerri, (MLT), 07:46:15

Number of finishers:
21 Men (3 DNF) and 8 women (0 DNF) in the ultra-marathon race